that Py_INCREF boosts global _Py_RefTotal when Py_REF_DEBUG is defined
but Py_TRACE_REFS isn't.

There are, IMO, way too many preprocessor gimmicks in use for refcount
debugging (at least 3 distinct true/false symbols, but not all 8 combos
are supported by the code, etc etc), and no coherent documentation of
this stuff -- 'twas too painful to track this one down.