This commit reverts 67d7da5f.

The previous fix changed the environment globally, which meant
that any call to `call_command(no_color=True)` prevented further
`call_command` with color.

This fix still relies on the environment because it's currently the only
way to reach WSGIRequestHandler, but it's now limited to the `runserver`
command. This seems an acceptable compromise considering `runserver` runs
indefinitely.

Thanks Tim Graham for the review.